3 Hiking and Camping Trip Destinations in West Papua

As a tour guide, I have accompanied a lot of tourists on various hiking and camping trips in West Papua. From all of the outdoor adventure trips destinations that I have done, there are three places that I like the most.

1. Aiwatar hill - It is still placed on the top list of the hiking and camping trip destinations that I recommend it for you. It is located in District Senopi. To reach the hill, you need to fly to Manokwari city and continue your trip by airplane to District Kebar. After that, you can walk or hitchhike a truck to District Senopi. The next morning, if you are fit enough to walk, you can leave the village for the hill. It takes around five hours walking through the jungle and crossing rivers to get to Aiwatar. The scenery of the tropical rainforest with some big and small rivers will make you feel that you are in the middle of nowhere. During your hiking trip in the rainforest of Senopi, you may be able to see deers, birds of paradise, ornate lory, goliath cockatoo, kangaroo,  and various other animals live in the region. 
2. Asai  - This hiking and camping trip destination is located in the north coast of Manokwari regency. The tropical rainforest of Asai is rich of bio diversity. It is the natural habitat of cuscus, sulphur crested cockatoo and snakes. As you walk deeper into the jungle, you will see more birds, and unique plants. You will be surrounded by green vegetation. Don't forget to bring sleeping bag and waterproof camping tent if you want to stay for several nights at the bank of Asai river.  In addition to hiking, cycling from Manokwari town to Asai village is also possible to be carried out by travelers. I personally have done it twice. On the average, a cyclist needs four hours to reach Asai. Before leaving the town, the cyclist needs to check all the gear mechanism and tires of his or her bike are in good working order.
3. Camp Dopi of Inggramui forest - This is a hiking tour destination that is not far from Manokwari city. So, it is the cheapest place to go compared to the above destinations. I have guided European and American tourists to Dopi river. Blyth's hornbills usually fly above our heads when we walk through the stream of the river. If you spend at least one night camping at the bank of Dopi river, you will have the opportunity to go to the dancing site of the lesser birds of paradise. Monitor lizards, kangaroo and deers live in the jungle of this river too. You may see them while hiking through the rainforest of Dopi river. If you want to watch birds of paradise, don't forget to bring a pair of binoculars or telephoto camera with extra batteries.

For all of your hiking and camping trips in this tropical rainforest of West Papua, bring tent. If you take a tour from me, the tent will be provided by me. If you decide to bring your own tent, it has to be water resistant. The material should be light. 

Rainforest of Aiwatar Hill in District Senopi The Best Birding Destination in West Papua

I have traveled to many places in the bird's head region of New Guinea on various hiking and birding trips but the only place that I really admire for its abundance of birdlife is the Aiwatar Hill in District Senopi of Tambrauw Mountains.

When I was traveling with two European tourists in Senopi, I saw various species of birds such as the lesser bird of paradise (paradisaea minor), Blyth's hornbill (rhyticeros plicatus), yellow faced mina (mino dumontii), various fruit doves, goliath cockatoo (probosciger aterimus), great cuckoo dove (macropygia nigrirostris), rainbow lorikeet, and some other birds that I could not identify. The best way to watch birds in Aiwatar hill is by setting up a campsite at the foot of the hill. At dawn, you need to walk up the slopes of the hill to reach it before sunrise. When the sun light hits the tree tops and the ground of the hill, birds will begin to land on the ground to drink the warm salty water that springs out of the sharp porous rocks. Don't forget to bring extra batteries for your camera because you will have endless subjects to shoot. Bring your sleeping bag and tent if you want to stay for several days in Aiwatar.

During the hiking and rainforest tour in Senopi, I also saw snake, deers, cow and kangaroo. I consider my trip to Aiwatar hill of District Senopi as my best birding trip so far in my life. I have been to Arfak mountains, Numfor island, the Northern Coast of Manokwari, Bintuni and Kais river in the south of the bird's head region of New Guinea for exploring their tropical rainforests but I still consider Aiwater Hill of District Senopi as the richest place in terms of birdlife.

So, if you are interested in visiting Senopi for hiking, butterfly and birdwatching, you can contact me via email: peace4wp@gmail.com for detailed cost estimation and my guiding services.

Located between Sorong and Manokwari regencies, District Senopi is can be reached by car and airplane. The cheapest way to go to Senopi is by airplane. First, you need to fly with Susi Air from Manokwari to District Kebar before continuing your trip by car to Senopi. However, if you are traveling in a group of tree or four people with heavy camping gear and optical devices for hiking and watching birds, you can share the cost of the car transportation and accommodation during the trip. by Charles Roring

Also read:

• Hiking trip in the rainforest of Senopi
• Senopi village and a jungle walk to Aiwatar hill
• Birding in Aiwatar hill of Senopi
• Palm Cockatoo in Senopi forest

Hiking trip in rainforest of Senopi

Hiking trip through a pristine tropical rainforest is what a lot of travelers want to enjoy. As a hiking tour organizer, I have guided a lot of hikers on various hiking trips in the bird's head region of Irian Jaya. There is a place called Aiwatar in Senopi, a small village or district in Tambrauw regency of West Papua. It is a nice destination for travelers who want to go hiking along the tropical rainforest of New Guinea - the largest tropical island in the world. Aiwatar hill is also one of the best birding destinations in West Papua. The hiking trip in District Senopi should be prepared at least one month in advance to check for the transportation, accommodation and weather condition. Aiwatar is a hill in the interior of bird's head region of West Papua where most of the plants that grow there are the same as the plants that are found in coastal region.
In addition to this uniqueness, Aiwatar is also the best birdwatching spot for hikers who want to see various species of birds that are endemic to New Guinea including the Western Crown Pigeon and the Lesser Birds of Paradise.

For the hiking trip in District Senopi, backpackers or hikers need to prepare waterproof tents, hiking boots and food. Bring a waterproof GPS device or hiking watch if you have one. If you don't have such device, try to order it from Amazon online store.
After receiving your GPS device, try to use it several times in your country until you know all its features. Because the temperature in the tropical region is quite warm, hikers need to bring tents that have got windows to allow air to circulate naturally.
The Aiwatar hill can be reached within 5 to 6 hours walking from District Senopi depending on the physical condition of the hikers. Food such as bread and biscuits can be bought from supermarkets in Manokwari city. Cassava, sweet potatoes, fruits and vegetables are available in District Senopi. I recommend that travelers buy local produce from the villagers in Senopi to support the local economy. For serious birders, they need to bring extra batteries for their telephoto, and video cameras. Hire one or several villagers as guide and porters to show you the way to Aiwatar hill and to carry your heavy backpacks.

To get to Senopi, you need to fly to Manokwari city from Jakarta or Denpasar Bali, and then continue your trip by a chartered 4WD pick up truck to Senopi. If going by a rent truck is expensive for you, you can fly by Susi Air to Kebar. And then you can continue your trip backpacking or by truck to Senopi.
There is a guesthouse in Senopi. It is located across from Pastoran Katolik (Priest house) of Senopi.
If you contact me before your arrival in Manokwari, I can arrange the pick up truck for you and contact the priest in Senopi by SSB radio so that he will prepare the guesthouse for you. Unless you have tons of money in the bank, traveling alone is not recommended. You need to go to Senopi in a group of at least two people or more to enjoy your hiking tour in Senopi in a shared cost. If you need more information about hiking tours in Manokwari, please, read my other articles in this blog, or contact me via email: peace4wp@gmail.com.

Related article:

• Hiking Tour in the North Coast of Manokwari
• Birding Tour in Tambrauw Mountains

Senopi Village and a Jungle Walk to Aiwatar Hill

Senopi is a small village in Tambrauw mountains. It is located between Manokwari and Sorong. Although it has not been listed by Lonely Planet in its Indonesia's travel guide book, the tropical rainforest near Senopi village has got a world class birding center in Aiwatar hill where only very small number of tourists has ever visited.

The picture of male lesser bird of paradise (paradisaea minor) was taken by Wim Boyden when we were hiking in the rainforest near Aiwatar hill. 

I went there last year with two tourists from Belgium, Wim and Vicky. Guided by three local guides, we walked through the tropical rainforest of Senopi for around 5 hours to reach the hill. The species of plants that cover the rocky hill of Aiwatar are different from plants that grow in other hills and mountains outside Aiwatar. They are the same as the species of plants that we can find in the coastal area. Aiwatar is located deep in the inland area of the Tambrauw mountains. However, beach plants and flowers are not the only attraction that we can see in Aiwatar. If we walk up the slopes of the hill to reach its top, we will see warm water comes out of the ground. It is not fresh water it is salty. When I was there with Wim Boyden and Maker (our local guide), we were able to see various species of birds on the branches of the trees around the hill. The best time to watch birds on this hill is early in the morning. It means that we need to be on the hill before the birds come or before dawn. It's a hard journey but Aiwatar hill is worth visiting.  It is not only birds that you can see while hiking to Aiwatar. Perhaps, you may see wild deer, tree kangaroo, boar, wild cows, kuskus and snakes too.
If you are an adventurous person, you can go further by visiting Sekwa village. Try to meet Paul Warere, a local Papuan villager who can guide tourists in the jungle. He will accompany you to explore the rainforest and watch wildlife or see waterfall.

There are two ways to reach Senopi. The first is by car, and the second is by airplane. The cheapest is by airplane (because the ticket is subsidized by the government). Since a lot of local people choose to go by airplane, the seats for tourists may not always be available. If you are interested in visiting Senopi and trekking to Aiwatar and the surrounding rainforest of Senopi, inform your planned trips at least 3 months prior to your arrival in Manokwari city. To secure your flight seats to Kebar valley, you can contact me via my email charlesroring@gmail.com. I will try to reserve your ticket(s). If you cannot get the airplane ticket(s), the cost that you will spend for paying a rent car will be very expensive. by Charles Roring

Also read:

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The Cheapest Way to Travel Around Manokwari regency

Some tourists say that traveling around Manokwari regency in the province of West Papua is expensive. Yes, it is true. I cannot deny this statement. For instance, the cost of traveling from Manokwari city to Kebar valley and Senopi is around Rp. 5,000,000 (five million rupiahs) or around 588 US dollars for a rent car. If you are a budget traveler, I suggest that you travel in group of three to four people to share the cost. I know that it might be difficult due to different interests. Another alternative way to go to the valley is by airplane. Susi Air fly to Kebar valley of Tambrauw mountains. Ticket price is very cheap because it is subsidized by the local government to boost the economic activity in the remote inland areas of Kebar valley and its surrounding region. The cheap ticket price is provided by the airline under a program called "penerbangan perintis" or "pioneering flights." Because the ticket is cheap, a lot of people buy them. I tried to reserve the tickets for Czechs tourists in March 2011 but I did not succeed.

Besides Kebar and Senopi, another interesting destination in Manokwari regency is the Arfak mountains. Again, some tourists have expressed their concerns over the expensive cost. The normal rate for car rent to Mokwam villages is 2 million rupiahs (go and return) or around 232 US dollars. It is the same as the price of a jet plane ticket for a flight between Manokwari city and Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia. The rates that I mention above are the real rates that have been charged by car drivers. I never mark up the prices. So, if you are really interested in visiting Kebar, Senopi and Mokwam, the cheapest way to travel to these villages is by going in groups of three or four tourists.

In addition to the mountaineous region, interesting travel destination that I promote in this blog is the Numfor island. This tropical island lies between Manokwari city and Biak island. It can be reached by boat and airplanes. Check the schedule of the boat at Manokwari ship harbor if you want to go to Numfor island. Although traveling to Numfor by boat is very cheap, you will be shocked to find out that the price of Ojek ride in the island is much higher than the normal rate that you usually pay in Manokwari city. If you do not want to deal with matters related to arranging cars, flights and accommodation while visiting Manokwari, you can contact me via email charlesroring@gmail.com. As a tourist guide, I will be happy to arrange them for you. Do not forget to mention the date of your arrival in Manokwari and the duration of your trip when you contact me so that I can develop a good program or itinerary for you in a reasonable price. by Charles Roring
Also read: Buying Tickets of Susi Air and My New Discovery of Rendani Lake

Tropical rainforest preservation in District Senopi

Tropical rainforest of District Senopi is one of the best hiking trip destinations in the bird's head region of West Papua province. I have been trying to help the indigenous Papuan people preserving their rainforest through the promotion of ecotourism schemes for Tambrauw Mountains, Arfak mountains and the Table Mountain. The objective of the promotion is to attract tourists to Manokwari regency so that they can enjoy the natural beauty of the high biodiversity of the forest and at the same time give financial support to the eco-tourism service providers that are mostly run by the indigenous people of Papua. New threat to Papua tropical rainforest occurs every day, from illegal logging to forest clearing for palm oil plantation. When this responsible tourism program can provide jobs and generate income for the Papuan people, they will not be interested in giving  up their  land and forest to the logging companies and palm oil plantation corporations that are now threatening every square inch of the forest in Papua. No Forest-No Tourists, and No tourists means No Money.

Rainforest in Tambrauw Mountains

Senopi Village of Tambrauw Mountains
Senopi is a district located around 200 kilometers from Manokwari city. Most part of the region is still covered with tropical rainforest. Its nearby Kebar district has the largest savanna in the birds head region of West Papua. Some tourists have already visited Senopi. They went there to enjoy hiking tours in the jungle where they would see male lesser birds of paradise dancing on the branches and twigs of a tree located some two hours walk from the village. Early in the morning and in the afternoon before sunset, male birds of paradise gather in a tree to perform courtship dance in front of some female birds of paradise as their spectators. This is a very beautiful scene for nature lovers. Besides watching birds of paradise, tourists can also see various kinds of tropical rainforest animals such as kuskus, tree kangaroo, boars and other beautiful birds such as hornbills and sulphur-crested cockatoo.

The best time to see the birds is early in the morning. They usually can be found in flowering or fruiting trees. It is not difficult to reach Senopi. Once you arrive in Manokwari, you can go to YAT Losmen or contact me  via my email peace4wp@gmail.com to arrange a car to the village.
Other important tourist attractions in Senopi are the population of deers (Cervus timorensis) that you will sometimes meet while hiking through the jungle of the district. More birds species can also be seen on the Aiwatar Hill which is located some 4 hours walk from Senopi. It is better for you to stay one night by the Kamundan river and very early in the morning  you can climb the hill to watch the birds drinking salty water that comes out of the ground until they get drunk.

I have been traveling a lot in recent months taking pictures of birds, butterfly, coral reef, ornamental fish and anything that represents the high biodiversity of the tropical rainforest and coral reef of West Papua. But my bird watching journey to Airwatar Hill is one of the most memorable experiences that I've ever had. Unfortunately, this birding center is still not known among the birding communities around the world.
I hope that the increasing number of tourists going to Senopi to enjoy hiking tours will help the indigenous Papuan villagers improve their living condition and at the same time protect their forest and its surrounding environment for future Papuan generations. by Charles Roring

Also read:
6 Hiking tour destinations in Arfak mountains
Rainforest of Arfak Mountains as tourist destination
Tropical rainforest a great tourist attraction in Manokwari Papua

Deers of Kamundan river

We just came out of Aiwatar hill after hiking around the area where we saw various species of birds of New Guinea.  The sun had just set on the west. We were very exhausted. Still we had to walk for more than four hours back to Senopi village, a district in Manokwari regency of West Papua. OMG, I forgot to bring my flash light. So, we would walk through the tropical jungle in the dark.  Hope that no white snake waiting for us along the footpath. Walking along one of the tributaries of Kamundan river, I could hear the sound of the sulphur-crested cockatoo breaking the quiet sky of the rainforest on both sides of the Kamundan river. All that we were hearing now was the sound of water flowing rapidly down the river. 

We were walking on the slippery stones beneath the river bed now. At the junction between a small tributary and the mother river of Kamundan, there was a "small island" covered with bush plants. After passing by this "island" we would cross the Kamundan whose current was stronger. We were all tired and didn't expect to see interesting wildlife anymore. Well we were wrong, something amazing was waiting ahead of us. When we just arrived at the tip of the island suddenly we were surprised by the view of around thirty deers drinking on the other side of the tip. They were brown deers (cervus timorensis). They were terrified when they saw us too. A loud sound like a truck horn from one of the deers broke the atmosphere. And without counting one-two-three these mammals ran hurriedly away from us. I was amazed by them so, I forgot to take my digital camera a Sony cybershot out of my pocket. Fortunately, Wim Boyden remembered to take his long lens Canon Eos camera out of his bag. He was late and could only shoot some photos of those deers. These pictures were blurry but they were good treat for our exhausted mind and body. by Charles Roring

Also read: Watching how a deer was caught by hunters' dogs in Kamundan river of District Senopi West Papua

Watching Birds of Paradise

I, Wim Boyden (a tourist from Belgium) and Maker (a villager who guided us) left Senopi village at 12 p.m.. Our goal that day (16 August 2010) was to see birds of paradise. According to Maker's story, it would only take one hour of walking to a place on the other side of Kamundan river where male birds of paradise usually gather to perform their courtship dance for mating with their female birds in a tall tree.

We walked fast to reach that place before 3 p.m. because the birds would start dancing by that hour. What seemed to be a short walk in reality turned out to be a long walk. Generally it was hard for anybody who had not experienced trekking in the jungle of New Guinea. But for me and Wim, the journey was moderate. Besides small and big rivers, we had to overcome steep slopes, thorns from various wild vines hanging on trees and other green vegetation along our journey from the village to the hill where birds of paradise would be expected to come.

After stopping and drinking some water at a creek below the hill, we climbed slowly to a very steep slope near the place where the display tree of the birds of paradise stood. Maker arranged some palm leaves on branches and twigs of a small tree above our heads to cover us from being seen by the birds. The two-hour walk was exhausting.
Covered by insects
Our bodies were fully covered with sweat. It was "delicious nectar" for bees. In less than fifteen minutes all of our bodies had been covered by bees, ants, and mosquitoes. There were two different species of them. The smaller bees were black whereas the bigger ones were brown yellow. Flies, ants and various other species of insects came too. We were really annoyed by them but we could not wave our clothes to expel them. If we did that then the birds of paradise above us would fly away. I could only ask Maker to blow some smoke which he inhaled from his cigarette to these insects. They were really tough. They did not want to leave us at all. So, we had no choice but to receive them that afternoon as our friends while watching the birds of paradise dancing above our heads. The birds of paradise came several times and we could see them dancing. Unfortunately, we sat on a wrong place. We were too close to the tree.
Bring telephoto D-SLR camera to shoot birds
Actually, we needed to find a place where we could see them from a 45 degree viewing angle. Wim took out his long lens digital camera to shoot them. It was not easy at all because they were among the branches and twigs of the tree some thirty meters above us. I was happy because at least I could listen to their magnificent voices while they were calling one another.

We were waiting and watching the lesser birds of paradise for around two and a half hour before deciding to walk back to District Senopi where the guesthouse was. The journey back to the village was not tiring anymore when we had successfully watched and taken pictures of these wonderful creatures from avian kingdom.
Places in Manokwari to watch birds of paradise
There are other places in Manokwari which you could visit to watch birds of paradise.

• Susnguakti Forest - this is the closest place from Manokwari town. It takes around 1 hour by car to reach the entrance point of the forest, and another 1 hour walk into the jungle to reach the dancing ground of birds of paradise. There is a base camp in the jungle which tourists can stay for several days to explore the lower montane rainforest of Arfak mountains.
• Kwau village in Arfak mountains. This is a popular destination for visitors. It takes around 2 hours by car to reach the guest house. There are several species of birds of paradise that visitors can watch, i.e. the magnificent birds of paradise (Cicinnurus magnificus), Western Parotia (Parotia sefilata). Another interesting bird is the bowerbird (Amblyornis inornatus).
• Inggramui village - Tourists need to walk for 3 hours through the jungle to watch birds of paradise. There are also 2 basecamps in the jungle which visitors can stay in for exploring the tropical rainforest that is rich of biodiversity.

How to get to Manokwari?

Manokwari is the capital of West Papua province in the Republic of Indonesia. Tourists fly to Manokwari to watch birds of paradise. To get to this town, fly from your country to Jakarta (the capital of Indonesia). After that take a domestic flight that is served by Sriwijaya Air, or Express Air or Lion Air to Manokwari.

When you have arrived in Manokwari, don't forget to call me by phone 081332245180. I will be happy to arrange your trip to the mountains to watch the most beautiful birds in the world. by Charles Roring - contact email: peace4wp@gmail.com

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The Tradition of Cooking with Bamboo

Travel story from Senopi village of Manokwari regency - in West Papua. At first I thought that Papuan do not have any traditions of cooking food inside bamboo. Well, I was wrong. The following photographs clearly show how the Papuan people in the Senopi village of Manokwari regency cook food inside bamboo. Their way of cooking is similar to how Minahasan tribe in North Sulawesi of Indonesia cook food inside bamboo.

Pork or meat that is cooked inside bamboo has a very good aroma especially when it had been mixed certain leaves or spices. The meat becomes tender after being heated. I like eating food which has been cooked with bamboo.

 Paul Warere took the photographs of this event in early March 2010. He went to Senopi village to attend the Gospel Preaching Day in the Senopi village. The villagers commemorate the date when Catholic priests entered the village to preach Gospel to indigenous Papuan people.
Besides being used as cooking media, bamboo is also used by the indigenous Papuan to collect the sap of the palm tree (arenga pinnata - latin). This sap or palm juice contains sugar which when fermented will turn into a strong alcoholic drinks. Paul also took pictures of how Papuan drink the palm juice from folded leaves.

Well, you are interested in traveling to Senopi village, I warn you not to drink this palm juice too much. You'll get drunk and can't control yourself. Don't worry the villagers won't angry with you. They will only laugh at you. Palm juice which has been fermented and distilled is a liquor that is banned by the local government.
If you want to travel to Senopi and Kebar valley, we can arrange a trip for you. Usually, tourists spend at least three days hiking, bird watching, deer watching, or swimming in the rivers there. Please, contact me by email to: peace4wp@gmail.com

The above photographs were taken by Paul Warere using the photosmart camera feature of my HP iPAQ rx3000 series Mobile Media Companion. This is a versatile digital instrument which also has the function of pocket PC your travel companion. by Charles Roring
Also read:

Traveling to District of Senopi and Watching How a Deer was Caught by Dogs in Senopi