Birding in Arfak Mountains - a short trip report

Paradise Bird in Arfak Mountains

The mountain range of Arfak is a nature reserve in the south of Manokwari that has been famous as a favorite destination for birdwatchers. I guided Professor Richard Ebright from 18 to 20 July 2013 on a birding tour in a cloud forest of the range. He came here as a tourist who wanted to watch birds of paradise in Arfak mountains prior to his scuba diving trip in Cendrawasih bay.

When we were walking and watching birds, we saw several birds that have got outstanding characteristics such as:

• Vogelkop Bowerbird that decorates his "palace" or bower with beautiful flowers, snail shells, fruits and other colorful articles. He made his bower from twigs.
• Male Western Parotia (Parotia sefilata) that dances like a ballerina to seduce his female bird. Male Western Parotia does not have feather as elaborate as Lesser Birds of Paradise but his "ballet dance" is really fantastic. 
• Magnificent Birds of Paradise that displays his beautiful feather, expand his chest and plays his sickle like tail antennas to attract his female birds.

I, Prof. R. Ebright and some villagers who worked to support our birding tour

In order to see these unique and beautiful birds of New Guinea, we had to wait for each of them in dark hides/ blinds that were cold, and full of mosquitoes. I brought anti insect lotion that we applied on our exposed skin.

Each of the above bird species has its separate dancing or courtship ground. On the average we needed to spend 3 to 5 hours to see each bird came to the respected dancing ground. Our long waiting and boring bore excellent results. We were able to make videos and photographs of the birds. We also saw other interesting birds that came to or landed on the ground where Western Parotia would dance. They were Cinnamon Ground Dove and Spotted Catbird. There were to other small birds that I could not identify.

Cinnamon Ground Dove

The Cinnamon Ground Dove ate grains that fell onto the surface of the ground. When we were waiting for the male Western Parotia to dance, it was the Cinnamon bird that came first. Naturally male Western Parotia has got dancing skills that he uses to perform beautiful dances that look so beautiful. I hope that there will be a choreographer that can develop or create a human dance after the Western Parotia's dance so more people can enjoy it.

Magnificent Bird of Paradise

After exploring the dense, wet and cold forest of Arfak range for several days, finally I and Prof. Richard Ebright had to return to Manokwari. He would continue his trip to Cendrawasih Bay going on board of MV. Dewi Nusantara. He would scuba dive in the bay to see pristine coral reef of West Papua as well as swim with whaleshark.

Before getting on the car, I, Prof. Ebright and some villagers posed for pictures. Some of the villagers were university students who were studying in Papua University. They worked as local guides, cooks and porters in this eco-tourism program. The money that they earn was very valuable for them in supporting their study. So, I was very happy to see that my eco-tours in Manokwari and West Papua could bring positive impacts to the education of Papuan youths.

Vogelkop Bowerbird

The birding site in the slopes of Arfak range was located between 1,300 to 1,500 meters above sea level. I had to charter a 4WD pick-up truck such as Toyota Hilux or Ford Ranger, buy food and other logistical materials needed during the tour in tropical cloud forest of Arfak mountains. It took around 2 hours from the city of Manokwari to reach the forest. 

If you are interested in taking birding tour, in Arfak mountains and other areas of Indonesia,  please contact me Charles Roring by E-mail to peace4wp@gmail.com or through whatsapp by visiting this link.

Also read:

• Birding in West Papua - a trip report
• Birding in Tangkoko
• Birding and Wildlife-watching Tour in Tangkoko Nature Reserve
• Birding in Sonder of Minahasa
• One Week Birding Tour Across North Sulawesi (A Trip Report)

One Night in Arfak mountains

After trekking for 10 hours in the lowland forest along Pami river, the next morning I and the 3 French tourists continued their trip to upper montane forest of Arfak mountains. They were Paul, Sophie and Stephanie. We left Manokwari early in the morning hoping to reach the forest of Kwau village at around 6 a.m. so that we would be able to watch vogelkop bowerbird seducing his female birds. The 4WD pick-up truck that was carrying us was driven by Goris. He drove the Toyota Hilux too fast. Unfortunately, the driver made a mistake. By accident he drove the truck into a ditch that was covered by thick grass. We had to put granite stones into the ditch to help the driver pulled the car out of it. The car could not arrive on time.

Fortunately, when these French guests went to watch the vogelkop bowerbird (Amblyornis innornatus), they were able to see it. In the afternoon, they were able to watch Western Parotia (Parotia sefilata) whose male bird dances like a ballerina. They were lucky because not all of the guests who visited Arfak range saw the bird. Well, because the one that dances is a male bird, the right term might be dancer or danseur. What is a male ballet dancer called? balletmen or ballerino :-)
At night, the temperature dropped. I saw the French women put on thick clothing. It is funny to see European wear several layers of clothing. Perhaps, they are not use to cold temperature anymore because they have been living in Bali for more than five years. They are scuba divers who are attracted to the beauty of coral reef of Indonesia. All of us went to bed at around 8 a.m. in order to wake up early in the morning to watch the Magnificent birds of paradise.
They did a very long walking tour in the jungle. They fell to the ground, experienced bruises on their feet and become exhausted at the end of the trip. But they said that they really liked the rainforest tour. I am really grateful for their support in my eco-tourism program that is aimed at preserving rainforest and empowering the indigenous people of Papua. by Charles Roring/ E-mail: peace4wp@gmail.com

Trekking in the jungle of Manokwari

Also read:

• Birdwatching in Sulawesi
• Birding in North Sulawesi
• Birding in Sonder of Minahasa
• Birdwatching in Minahasa
• Manado City: Birdwatching and Sightseeing Tour

The best way to explore the wealth of tropical rainforest is by walking through it. Last week, I guided 3 French tourists on a 3-day trekking tour in the jungle of Manokwari. In the first day of the trips, we explored the lowland forest along Pami river. It was a long walk. We started at 9.30 a.m and finished at 18.30 p.m. The French tourists were tough and they were able to complete the whole journey that day. They were Anne, Stephanie and Paul. 

Trekking in the Forest of Manokwari

They saw beautiful scenery of forest when walking through Pami river. Very few tourists had experienced this trip. The purpose of the trip was to see the complex ecosystem of the tropical rainforest. While walking, they were able to see various species of trees, butterflies and birds. The most significant bird was Blyth's hornbill that frequently flies over the canopy of the forest. 

The next day, the walking tour program was continued to higher elevation forest between 1,300 to 1,500 meters above sea level where the French tourists would watch several birds of paradise such as Western Parotia (Parotia sefilata), Magnificent Birds of Paradise (Cicinnurus Magnificus). Another unique bird that was called as the king of seduction was Vogelkop bowerbird (Amblyornis innornatus). They were able to see all of them although only had a small glance of the Magnificent one. While sitting in the blind to watch the birds, they also saw a Cinnamon fruit dove. 

A French tourist was trekking in West Papua

The last day of the trekking journey was completed after they had a long walk from the guesthouse at the foot of Mt. Soyti to Kwau village. They were thrilled by the panorama of Arfak range when walking down the steep slopes that overlooked the village. 

Arfak range has been a favorite destination among tourists who visit West Papua. Anybody who wants to book this trekking program has to be physically fit. If you are interested in trekking in the lowland and highland forests of Manokwari, please contact me (Charles Roring) by email: peace4wp@gmail.com. 

Trekking in the Minahasa Highland

The highland of Minahasa is located in North Sulawesi Province, Indonesia. It is a great destination for visitors who love nature. The best way to enjoy its natural beauty is by walking through it. As a tourist guide, I offer a trekking tour for visitors who want to see farmlands, paddy fields, waterfall, rivers, villages of Minahasa. 

The duration of the tour is around 3 days to 1 week depending on the time which the participants have. Hiking shoes, 

Orchids in Manokwari

I guided 3 Australian and 1 Dutch tourists in Manokwari on a full day city tour yesterday. We explored Reremi area that was once a housing complex of Dutch people until 1962. We continued our trip to Manggoapi to see the magnificent scenery of this coastal city. I managed to take a picture of Manokwari from Manggoapi using Canon Powershot G1X.

Then we continued the tour to Amban where the State University of Papua is located. We didn't spend much time in the complex of the university. We continued our trip to Litbang area at the back of Table Mountain. There we met a Dutch man whose house is surrounded by orchids. His name is James. His wife was the one who grows the orchids. There are several species of orchids in the front and side yards of the house. Some has yellow and brown colors whereas others have pink, white and purple colors. The family also has got an oil painting of orchid flowers in the living room of the house created by an Indonesian artist. The house was built near the tropical jungle that covers the Table Mountain. It has got a very relaxing atmosphere. While the tourists were busy talking with the house owner, I spent my time taking pictures of the orchids, hibiscus flowers and golden trumpet that grow around the house. After spending around 1 hour conversation with James, we continued our trip to Pasir Putih beach. by Charles Roring

White Flowers in Arfak Mountains

When I accompany tourists during their trekking tours in Arfak mountains, I often see various flowers that grow in the jungle. They are so colorful but there are some that are only or mostly white. The one that I saw in the elevation of approximately 2,010 meters above sea level was called Rhododendron Konori. The following photograph is the flower that I mean.

I also saw another species of flower plant that was growing on the trunk of a tree at an elevation of around 1,400 meters. I found some white flowers on the ground below the tree where the orchid grows. They were fragrant but I am not sure whether they fell from the same orchid plant.

 I took the picture of this orchid while I was trekking with four Thai tourists. We watched bowerbird, and saw some birdwing butterflies. If you know its English and Latin name, please, inform me by email to peace4wp@gmail.com